Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Melanon X Cream Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
MEDI-PEEL Melanon X Cream Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum This brightening treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This hydrating serum is formu
MEDI-PEEL Melanon X Cream Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
This brightening treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Betaine
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Dimethicone
Niacinamide
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Beeswax
Alpha-Arbutin
Broussonetia Kazinoki Callus Culture Extract
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract
PEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sorbitan Stearate
Sucrose Cocoate
Cysteine
Ascorbic Acid
Carnitine
Tranexamic Acid
Aletris Farinosa Root Extract
Biota Orientalis Leaf Extract
Zanthoxylum Schinifolium Leaf Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana Extract
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Ozokerite
Tocopheryl Acetate
Arginine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Sh-Polypeptide-16
Adenosine
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
1,2-Hexanediol
Glycerin
Propanediol
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Betaine, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Alpha-Arbutin, Broussonetia Kazinoki Callus Culture Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Stearate, Sucrose Cocoate, Cysteine, Ascorbic Acid, Carnitine, Tranexamic Acid, Aletris Farinosa Root Extract, Biota Orientalis Leaf Extract, Zanthoxylum Schinifolium Leaf Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ozokerite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Propanediol
Squalane
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Ectoin
Tetrapeptide-30
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Copper PCA
Panthenol
Sodium Polyglutamate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Acacia Senegal Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Ectoin, Tetrapeptide-30, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Copper PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Polyglutamate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.