MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Golden Camellia Wrinkle Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Vitanol Pro Cream

MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Golden Camellia Wrinkle Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Vitanol Pro Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Synthetic Wax

Silica

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Dimethicone

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Polysilicone-15

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Stearyl Heptanoate

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Propanediol

Ectoin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ecklonia Cava Extract

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract

Cholesterol

Retinal

Mentha Viridis Extract

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

Ceteth-3

Ceteth-5

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract

Sargassum Fulvellum Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract

Thiamine Hcl

Pantothenic Acid

Tripeptide-1

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Riboflavin

Pyridoxine

Biotin

Cyanocobalamin

Folic Acid

Parfum

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Synthetic Wax, Silica, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-15, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Stearyl Heptanoate, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Ectoin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ecklonia Cava Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Cholesterol, Retinal, Mentha Viridis Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Sargassum Fulvellum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract, Thiamine Hcl, Pantothenic Acid, Tripeptide-1, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine, Biotin, Cyanocobalamin, Folic Acid, Parfum

Niacinamide 12%

Isoamyl Laurate

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Octyldodecanol

Glyceryl Stearate

Microcrystalline Wax

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Panthenol

Sorbitan Olivate

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

PEG-100 Stearate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Bisabolol

Carbomer

Methylpropanediol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tromethamine

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Betaine

Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract

Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Glucosylrutin

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Polyglutamic Acid

Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Salicylic Acid

Sucrose Palmitate

Citric Acid

Hydrolyzed Sponge

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Menadione

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Glutathione

Artemisia Annua Extract

Linoleic Acid

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Linolenic Acid

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Ascorbic Acid

Chlorella Minutissima Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Phosphate

Lecithin

Oligopeptide-29

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Oligopeptide-32

Oligopeptide-6

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-10

Sh-Polypeptide-60

Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide 12%, Isoamyl Laurate, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Octyldodecanol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glyceryl Stearate, Microcrystalline Wax, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Carbomer, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tromethamine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Betaine, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Glucosylrutin, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Disodium EDTA, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Polyglutamic Acid, Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Salicylic Acid, Sucrose Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ectoin, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Menadione, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Glutathione, Artemisia Annua Extract, Linoleic Acid, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Linolenic Acid, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Chlorella Minutissima Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Lecithin, Retinal, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-29, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Oligopeptide-32, Oligopeptide-6, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-10, Sh-Polypeptide-60, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ectoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.

This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.

When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.

Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:

A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.

Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.

In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:

Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.

Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.

The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.

It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.

On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).

Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.

This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Retinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.

What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.

Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.

Studies back up its efficacy in skin:

A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.

And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.

More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).

Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.

This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.

Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.

Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.

Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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