MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Vitanol Pro Cream Versus Kosé Wrinkle Care Grace One White Moist Gel Cream

MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Vitanol Pro Cream Versus Kosé Wrinkle Care Grace One White Moist Gel Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide 12%

Isoamyl Laurate

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Propanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Octyldodecanol

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Glyceryl Stearate

Microcrystalline Wax

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Panthenol

Sorbitan Olivate

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

PEG-100 Stearate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Bisabolol

Carbomer

Methylpropanediol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tromethamine

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Betaine

Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract

Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Adenosine

Glucosylrutin

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Disodium EDTA

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Polyglutamic Acid

Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Salicylic Acid

Sucrose Palmitate

Citric Acid

Ectoin

Hydrolyzed Sponge

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Menadione

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Glutathione

Artemisia Annua Extract

Linoleic Acid

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Linolenic Acid

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Ascorbic Acid

Chlorella Minutissima Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Phosphate

Lecithin

Retinal

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Oligopeptide-29

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Oligopeptide-32

Oligopeptide-6

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-10

Sh-Polypeptide-60

Parfum

Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide 12%, Isoamyl Laurate, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Octyldodecanol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glyceryl Stearate, Microcrystalline Wax, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Carbomer, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tromethamine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Betaine, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Glucosylrutin, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Disodium EDTA, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Polyglutamic Acid, Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Salicylic Acid, Sucrose Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ectoin, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Menadione, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Glutathione, Artemisia Annua Extract, Linoleic Acid, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Linolenic Acid, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Chlorella Minutissima Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Phosphate, Lecithin, Retinal, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-29, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Oligopeptide-32, Oligopeptide-6, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-10, Sh-Polypeptide-60, Parfum

Niacinamide

Alcohol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Hydrogenated Egg Oil

Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate

Methicone

N-Stearoyl-Dihydrosphingosine

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Elastin

Myristoyl Succinoyl Atelocollagen

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Collagen Powder

Hydrolyzed Silk

Soluble Collagen

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Isostearic Acid

Cholesterol

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

BHT

C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester

PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether

Potassium Laurate

Disodium Phosphate

Potassium Phosphate

Petrolatum

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Methylparaben

Caramel

Niacinamide, Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Egg Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Methicone, N-Stearoyl-Dihydrosphingosine, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Elastin, Myristoyl Succinoyl Atelocollagen, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Collagen Powder, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Soluble Collagen, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Isostearic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Cholesterol, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, BHT, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Potassium Laurate, Disodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Petrolatum, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Parfum, Caramel

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Phosphate is is behind-the-scenes formulation helper. Its main job is buffering, or locking in the product's pH.

This helps ensure the formula stays at its intended acidity through manufacturing, shipping, and sitting on your shelf. Many active ingredients like vitamin C or retinoids are pH sensitive so maintaining their happy pH range matters.

It is synthetic and reported use concentrations are very low (up to 0.086% in face powders).

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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