Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Bio Tox Ampoule Pro Versus SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle Modulating Peptide Serum
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Sodium Lactate
1,2-Hexanediol
Gellan Gum
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Golden Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Propanediol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Fructan
Chamomilla Recutita Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Glycine
Caprylyl Glycol
Polysorbate 80
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Ectoin
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Benzyl Glycol
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Oryza Sativa Extract
Astaxanthin
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Alanine
Lysine
Arginine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Valine
Threonine
Proline
Isoleucine
Histidine
Methionine
Cysteine
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hexapeptide-9
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Nonapeptide-1
Pentylene Glycol
Hair Extract
Potassium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Alcohol
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Sodium Lactate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gellan Gum, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Golden Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Propanediol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Fructan, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Ectoin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Benzyl Glycol, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Oryza Sativa Extract, Astaxanthin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hexapeptide-9, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Nonapeptide-1, Pentylene Glycol, Hair Extract, Potassium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Alcohol, Parfum
Gluconolactone
PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
Alcohol Denat.
Methyl Gluceth-20
Potassium Hydroxide
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Salicylic Acid
Chlorphenesin
Phytic Acid
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Water, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Pentylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phytic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Benzoate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!