Skin science article
MediCube Age-R Glutathione Glow Serum Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP
MediCube Age-R Glutathione Glow Serum Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Pal
MediCube Age-R Glutathione Glow Serum Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
PEG-8
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol
Methylpropanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Methyl Gluceth-20
Glycereth-26
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Betaine
Carbomer
Diphenyl Dimethicone
Tromethamine
Triethylhexanoin
Ethylhexylglycerin
C12-14 Alketh-12
Parfum
Glutathione
Xanthan Gum
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Adenosine
Coptis Japonica Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Disodium EDTA
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Panthenol
Collagen
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Dextrin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Stellaria Media Extract
Sorbitan Laurate
Prunella Vulgaris Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Lycopodium Clavatum Extract
Equisetum Arvense Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Hyaluronic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Keratin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hydrolyzed Silk
Water, Glycerin, PEG-8, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Betaine, Carbomer, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tromethamine, Triethylhexanoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-14 Alketh-12, Parfum, Glutathione, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine, Coptis Japonica Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Panthenol, Collagen, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Dextrin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stellaria Media Extract, Sorbitan Laurate, Prunella Vulgaris Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Lycopodium Clavatum Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Silk
Dimethicone
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Undecane
Arginine
Inulin
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Ceteareth-20
Tridecane
Tocopherol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Pullulan
Tetrapeptide-21
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Glyceryl Linoleate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pentapeptide-18
Oligopeptide-1
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Sucrose Palmitate
Cetyl Palmitate
Phenoxyethanol
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Stearate
Polysorbate 20
Carnosine
Sodium Metabisulfite
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Pantolactone
T-Butyl Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Glyceryl Caprylate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, Arginine, Inulin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ceteareth-20, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pullulan, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Oligopeptide-1, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pantolactone, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.