Skin science article
MediCube Triple Collagen Cream Versus DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream
MediCube Triple Collagen Cream Versus DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Collagen Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoy
MediCube Triple Collagen Cream Versus DRMTLGY Peptide Night Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Collagen Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dipropylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Triethylhexanoin
Hydrogenated Polydecene
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Cyclohexasiloxane
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Collagen Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Cetearyl Olivate
C12-16 Alcohols
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sorbitan Olivate
Fructose
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
Squalane
Palmitic Acid
Betaine
Cellulose Gum
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Polysorbate 60
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Beta-Glucan
Alcohol
Disodium EDTA
Isononyl Isononanoate
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sucrose
Stearic Acid
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Fructooligosaccharides
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Citric Acid
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Collagen
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hyaluronic Acid
Tocopherol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Parfum
Potassium Sorbate
Linalool
Benzyl Salicylate
Limonene
Hydroxycitronellal
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Collagen Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Olivate, C12-16 Alcohols, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Fructose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Palmitic Acid, Betaine, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Beta-Glucan, Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sucrose, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Fructooligosaccharides, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Citric Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal
Propanediol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Undecane
Cetyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Tridecane
Allantoin
Glycol Distearate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Dextran
Magnesium Chloride
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Undecane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tridecane, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Glycol Distearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dextran, Magnesium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Xanthan Gum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!