Skin science article
MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MediCube Super Cica Ampoule
MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MediCube Super Cica Ampoule This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This calming ampoule is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Panthenol to calm red
MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MediCube Super Cica Ampoule
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This calming ampoule is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Sea Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Alcohol Denat.
Niacinamide
Glycereth-26
Adenosine
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Soluble Collagen
Collagen Extract
Atelocollagen
Propanediol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Trehalose
Carbomer
Cetearyl Olivate
Tromethamine
Cyclohexasiloxane
Sorbitan Olivate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Dimethicone
Parfum
Sea Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Alcohol Denat., Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Collagen Extract, Atelocollagen, Propanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trehalose, Carbomer, Cetearyl Olivate, Tromethamine, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dimethicone, Parfum
Centella Asiatica Extract
Water
Methylpropanediol
Betaine
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Allantoin
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Dipropylene Glycol
Panthenol
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Coptis Japonica Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
Madecassoside
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Asiatic Acid
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Ectoin
Centella Asiatica Extract, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Panthenol, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Coptis Japonica Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Madecassoside, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Ectoin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.
It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.
As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.