Secret Key Snail Repairing Essence Versus Coxir Black Snail Collagen Serum

Secret Key Snail Repairing Essence Versus Coxir Black Snail Collagen Serum

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Snail Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Palau White Clay Extract

Polysorbate 80

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Extract

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Placental Extract

Oligopeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Phenoxyethanol

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Palau White Clay Extract, Polysorbate 80, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Placental Extract, Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

Propylene Glycol

Alcohol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer

Betaine

Allantoin

Adenosine

Butylene Glycol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Copper Tripeptide-1

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Snail Extract

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Buddleja Davidii Extract

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Arginine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer, Betaine, Allantoin, Adenosine, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Copper Tripeptide-1, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Snail Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Arginine, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Oryza Sativa Extract comes from the rice grain, Oryza sativa. Rice extract has wound healing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.

Rice grains contain numerous antioxidants which may help with anti-aging, such as vitamin E. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radical molecules. Unstable free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and accelerate signs of aging.

A study from 2002 found rice to help increase the rate of wound healing. The same study found an improvement of skin barrier function in the patients after taking rice baths.

Numerous in-vitro studies have found rice water to help decrease sun damage by increasing collagen production and inhibiting the process of tyrosinase.

Long story short- tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production. Our bodies start producing melanin (AKA tanning) when exposed to UV radiation to protect against damage. Rice water is found to partially block this process.

Though more research is needed on rice's ability to help with UV protection, recent studies seem promising.

Wondering why rice is hydrating? The protein in rice have emollient properties. Emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in, keeping your skin moisturized.

Some rice extract may have mildly-exfoliating properties. These are mainly limited to Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran and Oryza Sativa (Rice) Germ Powder.

This rice was first cultivated in China over 10,000 years ago. Many cultures throughout Asia have used rice water on skin and hair for centuries.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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