Skin science article
MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MediCube Triple Deep Erasing Cream
MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MediCube Triple Deep Erasing Cream This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This cream makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup. Wh
MediCube Triple Collagen Serum Versus MediCube Triple Deep Erasing Cream
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This cream makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Sea Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Alcohol Denat.
Niacinamide
Glycereth-26
Adenosine
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Soluble Collagen
Collagen Extract
Atelocollagen
Propanediol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Trehalose
Carbomer
Cetearyl Olivate
Tromethamine
Cyclohexasiloxane
Sorbitan Olivate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Dimethicone
Parfum
Sea Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Alcohol Denat., Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Collagen Extract, Atelocollagen, Propanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Trehalose, Carbomer, Cetearyl Olivate, Tromethamine, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dimethicone, Parfum
Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Triethylhexanoin
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Squalane
C12-16 Alcohols
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Fructose
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Palmitic Acid
Methylpropanediol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Polyquaternium-51
Betaine
Alcohol
Glycosyl Trehalose
Isononyl Isononanoate
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Cellulose Gum
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Beta-Glucan
Raffinose
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Stearic Acid
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EDTA
Lecithin
Sucrose
Bisabolol
Panthenol
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Folic Acid
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Citric Acid
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Zinc PCA
Triethanolamine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Capryloyl Glycine
Hexylene Glycol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Tocopherol
Sarcosine
Maltodextrin
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Oleanolic Acid
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Desamido Collagen
PEG-100 Stearate
Polysorbate 60
Potassium Sorbate
Caprylyl Glycol
Linalool
Benzyl Salicylate
Limonene
Hydroxycitronellal
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Squalane, C12-16 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Fructose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyquaternium-51, Betaine, Alcohol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Beta-Glucan, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, EDTA, Lecithin, Sucrose, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Folic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Triethanolamine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Sarcosine, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oleanolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Desamido Collagen, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.
Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.
As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.
Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.