Skin science article
Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment
Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Retinyl Propionate to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores. This anti-agin
Murad AHA/BHA/Retinoid Daily Clarifying Peel Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Retinyl Propionate to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinal and Oleyl Adapalenate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propanediol
Butyl Avocadate
Butylene Glycol
Glycolic Acid
Retinyl Propionate
Allantoin
Zinc Gluconate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
BHT
Betaine
Inositol
Taurine
Trehalose
Tocopherol
Salicylic Acid
Benzoic Acid
Limonene
Linalool
Citronellol
Geraniol
Benzyl Benzoate
Citral
Parfum
Potassium Sorbate
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dimethicone, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Butyl Avocadate, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Retinyl Propionate, Allantoin, Zinc Gluconate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, BHT, Betaine, Inositol, Taurine, Trehalose, Tocopherol, Salicylic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Retinal
Oleyl Adapalenate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Albatrellus Confluens Extract
Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Hydroxyapatite
Cetyl Glyceryl Ether
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Sodium Polyacrylate
Isopropyl Myristate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxystearic Acid
Ceramide AP
1,2-Hexanediol
Sorbitan Oleate
Naringin
Citric Acid
Titanium Dioxide
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Retinal, Oleyl Adapalenate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyapatite, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Glyceryl Ether, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Hydroxystearic Acid, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Oleate, Naringin, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!