Skin science article
Murad Essential-C Day Moisture Broad Spectrum SPF 30 PA+++ Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer
Murad Essential-C Day Moisture Broad Spectrum SPF 30 PA+++ Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Retinyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate to brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is fo
Murad Essential-C Day Moisture Broad Spectrum SPF 30 PA+++ Versus Naturium Multi-Peptide Moisturizer
This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Retinyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Palmitate to brighten dull-looking skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Homosalate 6.5%
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Benzophenone-3 2%
Water
Butylene Glycol
Stearic Acid
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Cocoglycerides
Lauryl Lactate
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Dimethicone
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetyl Phosphate
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Phospholipids
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract
Ectoin
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Passiflora Incarnata Extract
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Sodium PCA
Panthenol
Tripleurospermum Maritimum Extract
Zinc Gluconate
Ethyl Linoleate
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Xanthan Gum
Aminomethyl Propanol
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Limonene
Linalool
Parfum
CI 15985
CI 17200
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 6.5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Benzophenone-3 2%, Water, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Cocoglycerides, Lauryl Lactate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Phosphate, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Ectoin, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Tripleurospermum Maritimum Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Ethyl Linoleate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Limonene, Linalool, Parfum, CI 15985, CI 17200
Glycerin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Squalane
Niacinamide
Stearyl Alcohol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Pantolactone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil
Honokiol
Magnolol
Palmitic Acid
Sorbitan Oleate
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
1,2-Hexanediol
Boron Nitride
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Isohexadecane
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Palmitate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Stearyl Alcohol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Honokiol, Magnolol, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Oleate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Stearic Acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Boron Nitride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Isohexadecane, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!