My iN.gredients Collagen + Multi Peptide Serum Versus Oumere Advancement Concentrate

My iN.gredients Collagen + Multi Peptide Serum Versus Oumere Advancement Concentrate

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Resveratrol and Beta-Glucan to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phenoxyethanol

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Carbomer

Tromethamine

1,2-Hexanediol

Propanediol

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Sorbitan Isostearate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Vegetable Amino Acids

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Proline

Hydroxyproline

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Magnesium Chloride

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Oligopeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-29

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Vegetable Amino Acids, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Proline, Hydroxyproline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Magnesium Chloride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Oligopeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-29

Wine Extract

Resveratrol

Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract

Aloe Vera Vesicles

Beta-Glucan

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein

Glycine Soja Protein

Oxido Reductases

Ursolic Acid

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate

Sorbic Acid

Wine Extract, Resveratrol, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Aloe Vera Vesicles, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Glycine Soja Protein, Oxido Reductases, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glycerin, Water, Ursolic Acid, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Magnesium Chloride, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Magnesium chloride is a mineral salt made from magnesium and chloride. It is mainly used to control product stability and texture in cosmetics.

This ingredient can also play a role in soothing the skin and supporting normal skin function.

Magnesium chloride is water-soluble, generally well tolerated, and does not act as a strong “active” ingredient on its own.

This ingredient is a synthetic lipopeptide that is often paired with its sibling, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, in a trade blend called Syn-Tacks.

It's main job is to target the dermal-epidermal junction. This junction starts to weaken around age 30 and its functino depends heavily on proteins to keep skin intact, firm, and resilient.

This ingredient works by stimulating all of these proteins simultaneously. Research on related peptide complexes has shown that topical application significantly increased dermal collagen expression with significant improvement in skin wrinkles observed after just 2 weeks.

Clinical data suggests using 1-3% concentration for visible results and most blends use this amount anyway.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

We don't have a description for Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate yet.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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