Skin science article
Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream Versus Coxir Intensive EGF Peptide Cream
Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream Versus Coxir Intensive EGF Peptide Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around
Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream Versus Coxir Intensive EGF Peptide Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 14.3%
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Isopentyldiol
Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Cyclohexasiloxane
1,2-Hexanediol
PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Betaine
Allantoin
Trehalose
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Sodium Lactate
Gossypium Herbaceum Extract
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
PCA
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycine
Alanine
Lecithin
Royal Jelly Extract
Milk Extract
Polysorbate 20
Propolis Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Lactose
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Threonine
Proline
Phenylalanine
Histidine
Hyaluronic Acid
Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Phospholipids
Phytosphingosine
Copper Tripeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Lactic Acid
Cholesterol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Madecassoside
Tocopherol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Squalane
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11
Phytosterols
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hexapeptide-9
Nonapeptide-1
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 14.3%, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Betaine, Allantoin, Trehalose, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Sodium Lactate, Gossypium Herbaceum Extract, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycine, Alanine, Lecithin, Royal Jelly Extract, Milk Extract, Polysorbate 20, Propolis Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lactose, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Threonine, Proline, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Hyaluronic Acid, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phospholipids, Phytosphingosine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Lactic Acid, Cholesterol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Phytosterols, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Propylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Methyl Gluceth-20
Diisostearyl Malate
Cyclomethicone
PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Polysorbate 80
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate
Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract
Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Carbomer
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Lilium Tigrinum Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract
Chrysanthemum Indicum Flower Extract
Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Xanthan Gum
Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract
Buddleja Davidii Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract
Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Methyl Gluceth-20, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Diisostearyl Malate, Cyclomethicone, PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Adenosine, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Tri-C14-15 Alkyl Citrate, Myrciaria Dubia Fruit Extract, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arginine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract, Chrysanthemum Indicum Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!