Skin science article
Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream This calming moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair moisturizer is for
Neogen Probiotics Relief Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 14.3%
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Isopentyldiol
Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Cyclohexasiloxane
1,2-Hexanediol
PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Betaine
Allantoin
Trehalose
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Sodium Lactate
Gossypium Herbaceum Extract
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
PCA
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycine
Alanine
Lecithin
Royal Jelly Extract
Milk Extract
Polysorbate 20
Propolis Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Lactose
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Threonine
Proline
Phenylalanine
Histidine
Hyaluronic Acid
Lupinus Albus Seed Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Phospholipids
Phytosphingosine
Copper Tripeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Lactic Acid
Cholesterol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Madecassoside
Tocopherol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Squalane
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11
Phytosterols
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hexapeptide-9
Nonapeptide-1
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 14.3%, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Betaine, Allantoin, Trehalose, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Sodium Lactate, Gossypium Herbaceum Extract, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycine, Alanine, Lecithin, Royal Jelly Extract, Milk Extract, Polysorbate 20, Propolis Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lactose, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Threonine, Proline, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Hyaluronic Acid, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phospholipids, Phytosphingosine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Lactic Acid, Cholesterol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Madecassoside, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Phytosterols, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Olus Oil
Cetyl Lactate
C12-16 Alcohols
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Palmitic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Squalene
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Xanthan Gum
Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate
Glycine Soja Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Citric Acid
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Gluconolactone
Phenethyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.
Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.
Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.
Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.
More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:
Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols (you can think of them as the plant world's version of cholesterol). In cosmetics, this ingredient is usually sourced from soybean, rice bran, shea, sunflower, and other seed oils.
The main actors in this group are β-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol (the CIR covers 27 phytosterols).
They work by fitting perfectly into your stratum corneum's lipid matrix since they're structurally similar to cholesterol. Here, they reinforce your skin's barrier.
One small in vivo human study showed topical soybean phytosterols sped up barrier recovery within three days on tape-stripped skin.
Broader research credits them with:
Formulation use typically sit under 5%.
Testing in soy-allergic subjects found no sensitization signals, but be sure to patch test if you are unsure or have existing allergies.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!