Neogen Real Peptide Serum Versus Neogen Real Niacinamide 15% Serum

Neogen Real Peptide Serum Versus Neogen Real Niacinamide 15% Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Propanediol

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Butylene Glycol

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Inonotus Obliquus Extract

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Agar

Ubiquinone

Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Morinda Citrifolia Leaf Extract

Morinda Citrifolia Flower Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-12

Hexapeptide-9

Tripeptide-2

Nonapeptide-1

Hexapeptide-11

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Agar, Ubiquinone, Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Morinda Citrifolia Leaf Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-12, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Polysorbate 60

Bisabolol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Carbomer

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Ceramide NP

Riboflavin

Arbutin

Thiamine Hcl

Panthenol

Zinc PCA

Ferulic Acid

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Maltodextrin

Calcium Pantothenate

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Pyridoxine Hcl

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Silica

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 60, Propanediol, Bisabolol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ceramide NP, Riboflavin, Arbutin, Thiamine Hcl, Panthenol, Zinc PCA, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Maltodextrin, Calcium Pantothenate, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Silica

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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