Skin science article
Neutrogena Retinol Boost Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum
Neutrogena Retinol Boost Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Ascorbyl Glucoside to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and
Neutrogena Retinol Boost Serum Versus The INKEY List Retinol Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Ascorbyl Glucoside to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinyl Acetate and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cellulose
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Retinol
Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Laureth-7
Polyacrylamide
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BHT
Sorbic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Water, Dimethicone, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cellulose, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Retinol, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Polyacrylamide, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Retinyl Acetate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Phospholipids
Squalane
Glycine Soja Oil
Carbomer
Polysorbate 60
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glycolipids
Sodium Phytate
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Lactate
Tocopherol
Polysorbate 20
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Retinyl Acetate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Phospholipids, Squalane, Glycine Soja Oil, Carbomer, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycolipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!