Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Clear Face Lotion SPF 30 Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Clear Face Lotion SPF 30 Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and bl

Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Clear Face Lotion SPF 30 Versus The INKEY List SPF30 Sunscreen 100% Mineral UV Filters

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Octocrylene 3%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4%

Benzophenone-3 4%

Homosalate 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5%

Water

Silica

Cetyl Dimethicone

Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Steareth-100

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Dimethicone

Steareth-2

Polyester-7

Chlorphenesin

Propylene Glycol

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Bisabolol

Disodium EDTA

Butylene Glycol

Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer

Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate

Mannan

Xanthan Gum

BHT

Capryloyl Glycine

Trideceth-6

Sarcosine

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Extract

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Octocrylene 3%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4%, Benzophenone-3 4%, Homosalate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.5%, Water, Silica, Cetyl Dimethicone, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Steareth-100, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dimethicone, Steareth-2, Polyester-7, Chlorphenesin, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Bisabolol, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Mannan, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Capryloyl Glycine, Trideceth-6, Sarcosine, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Zinc Oxide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Coconut Alkanes

Glyceryl Stearate

Caramel

Glycerin

PEG-100 Stearate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysilicone-11

Squalane

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tocopheryl Acetate

Citric Acid

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Panthenol

Lecithin

Polysorbate 60

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

1,2-Hexanediol

Tocopherol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Caramel, Glycerin, Silica, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Squalane, Bisabolol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  4. 04The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  5. 05Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  14. 14It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  15. 15On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  16. 16Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  17. 17You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
  18. 18Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
  19. 19Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
  20. 20Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Turmeric Moisturizer

The Inkey List Turmeric Moisturizer The Inkey List Turmeric Moisturizer ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceri…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side