Skin science article
No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging se
No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum Versus Estée Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Glucosamine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Methyl Gluceth-20
Isononyl Isononanoate
Polysilicone-11
Niacinamide
Phenoxyethanol
Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Silica
Panthenol
Polysorbate 20
Caprylyl Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Potassium Hydroxide
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Decyl Glucoside
Propylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Propanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Hexylene Glycol
T-Butyl Alcohol
Sodium Benzoate
Morus Alba Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-94
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-95
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polysilicone-11, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Decyl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Hexylene Glycol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-94, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-95
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract
Pisum Sativum Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Laminaria Saccharina Extract
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Algae Extract
Hypnea Musciformis Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Caffeine
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Lactic Acid
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Saccharide Isomerate
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Isohexadecane
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Squalane
Sodium PCA
Urea
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Whey Protein
Palmaria Palmata Extract
Polysorbate 80
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Triolein
Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Linoleic Acid
Trehalose
Glycine Soja Protein
Glucosamine Hcl
Phospholipids
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Ergothioneine
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
PEG-8
Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides
Oleic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Calcium Chloride
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Mica
CI 77891
CI 77491
CI 77492
CI 77499
Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polysorbate 20, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Algae Extract, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Caffeine, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactic Acid, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Saccharide Isomerate, Methyl Gluceth-20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Zea Mays Kernel Extract, Whey Protein, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Triolein, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Linoleic Acid, Trehalose, Glycine Soja Protein, Glucosamine Hcl, Phospholipids, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ergothioneine, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, PEG-8, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Pentylene Glycol, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Silica, Calcium Chloride, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.
It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.
Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.