Skin science article
No7 Radiance+ 15% Vitamin C Serum Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer
No7 Radiance+ 15% Vitamin C Serum Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening moisturizer is formulated aro
No7 Radiance+ 15% Vitamin C Serum Versus Paula's Choice C5 Super Boost Moisturizer
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Propylene Glycol
Polysorbate 20
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Benzyl Alcohol
Allantoin
Xanthan Gum
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Sodium Citrate
Limonene
Dipropylene Glycol
Linalool
T-Butyl Alcohol
Parfum
Citric Acid
Denatonium Benzoate
Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Citrate, Limonene, Dipropylene Glycol, Linalool, T-Butyl Alcohol, Parfum, Citric Acid, Denatonium Benzoate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Dimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Squalane
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate
Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Propanediol
Jojoba Esters
Tocopherol
Acetyl Zingerone
Cetyl Palmitate
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax
Sodium Hydroxide
Sorbitan Olivate
Sorbitan Palmitate
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Hexylene Glycol
Sodium Phytate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Lecithin
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Lysolecithin
Bacillus Ferment
Polyglutamic Acid
Beta-Sitosterol
Phytic Acid
Squalene
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Squalane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Propanediol, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Acetyl Zingerone, Cetyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Olivate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Lysolecithin, Bacillus Ferment, Citric Acid, Polyglutamic Acid, Beta-Sitosterol, Phytic Acid, Squalene, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!