Skin science article
NourishMax Collagen Complex Dual Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
NourishMax Collagen Complex Dual Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This hy
NourishMax Collagen Complex Dual Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Propanediol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Coconut Alkanes
Ethyl Macadamiate
Sodium Chloride
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Hyaluronate
Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract
Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
Crambe Maritima Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cananga Odorata Flower Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Rose Extract
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Santalum Album Wood Extract
Panthenol
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Gardenia Jasminoides Meristem Cell Culture Extract
Marrubium Vulgare Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Malic Acid
Pantolactone
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Coconut Alkanes, Ethyl Macadamiate, Sodium Chloride, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Crambe Maritima Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Rose Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Panthenol, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Gardenia Jasminoides Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Malic Acid, Pantolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid
Squalane
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Ectoin
Tetrapeptide-30
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Copper PCA
Sodium Polyglutamate
Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Acacia Senegal Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Ectoin, Tetrapeptide-30, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Copper PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Polyglutamate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract is the extract from the flowers of the aloe vera plant. In cosmetics, it functions as a skin conditioning agent.
Here's the honest part: most of the famous "aloe" research is on the leaf and this flower extract is much less studied. It shouldn't be assumed to do everything the gel is known for.
However, there is a small body of flower-specific research that is interesting to take a look at.
The flowers of Aloe vera contain volatile compounds and ascorbic acid. And when researchers looked closer, they found the flower is rich in antioxidants called phenolics that lined up with the extract's strong antioxidant activity.
This extract also showed some ability to fight off a common bacteria (Pseudomonas aeruginosa) in lab tests.
In lab and mouse studies, those phenolic compounds behaved like solid antioxidants though human skin trials on the flower extract are still needed.
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty assuring. The CIR Expert Panel deems this ingredient safe in current practices of use and only rare cases of acute eczema, contact urticaria, and dermatitis have been reported.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract is also known as Ivy Gourd Fruit Extract. It has skin conditioning properties.
The fruit is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, and sterols that show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in vitro. This is because the fruit contains a thick mucilage that forms a protective and soothing layer on the skin's surface.
The extract itself has demonstrated antioxidant, soothing, and potential anti-allergy properties.
Most of this research is done in vitro and dedicated clinical studies on topical application are still limited.
Corallina Officinalis Extract is from the red seaweed, Corallina Officinalis. This seaweed is found all over the world but is most common in the rocky shores of Great Britain and Ireland.
Corallina Officinalis Extract contains antioxidant and emollient properties.
Extracted polysaccharides, galactose and xylose, in red algae showed antioxidant activity. Antioxidants help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and DNA. Galactose is also a PHA.
Corallina Officinalis is structurally similar to coral due to its high calcium content.
Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.
While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.
This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.
Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.
One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.
At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.
Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.
A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.
Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).
Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.
We don't have a description for Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract yet.
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract comes from the Holy Basil plant. Holy Basil is native to India.
Holy Basil is rich in antioxidants due to its high romarinic acid, ferulic acid, and rutin content. This gives it skin brightening and soothing properties.
While Holy Basil has many claims to help fight acne, more research is needed.
One thing to note is the presence of tannins; tannins are naturally found in nature. However, this compound may be skin-sensitizing.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
This ingredient comes from eggplant (or aubergine). It has skin conditioning properties due to its abundance of antioxidants like Chlorogenic Acid, Caffeic Acid, and Nasunin.
Nasunin is the pigment concentrated in the purple peel and has demonstrated the abilityu to neutralize free radicals and bind excess iron in lab studies.
Lab studies have shown that eggplant extracts can lower oxidative stress and protect skin cell membranes from damage. A 2025 study found that specific compounds in eggplant (particularly a phenolamide called N-Trans-Feruloylputrescine) may support skin health by neutralizing 2-nonenal, a byproduct linked to aging skin.
Overall, this is a gentle, well-tolerated ingredient that adds a little extra antioxidant support to your routine.
Those with nighshade vegetable allergies (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes) should patch test as eggplant is part of the same family.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.