Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Teeheehee Ceramide + Growth Factor Skin Barrier Collagen Serum

Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Teeheehee Ceramide + Growth Factor Skin Barrier Collagen Serum

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Polyglycerin-3

Butylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Propanediol

Dimethicone

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Methylpropanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Pentylene Glycol

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Cholesterol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Copper Gluconate

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Capryloyl Dipeptide-17

Thioctic Acid

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Glutathione

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil

Potassium Hydroxide

Resveratrol

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Sorbitan Laurate

Steareth-20

Astaxanthin

Sodium Lactate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Panthenol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Dextran

Hexapeptide-2

Magnesium Chloride

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Dipeptide-2

Potassium Sorbate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Citric Acid

Biotin

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Pentapeptide-18

Tripeptide-3

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Hexapeptide-9

Oligopeptide-3

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Ubiquinone

Copper Tripeptide-1

Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1

Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4

Galloyl Pentapeptide-33

Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Octapeptide-7

Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Decapeptide-9

Sh-Oligopeptide-9

Sh-Pentapeptide-19

Asparagine

Glutamine

Tryptophan

Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Carnosine

Nonapeptide-1

Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glutathione, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Resveratrol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Artemisia Annua Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract

Taraxacum Platycarpum Extract

Ulmus Campestris Bark Extract

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Lactobacillus Ferment

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Bifida Ferment Filtrate

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Ceramide NP

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sodium Carbomer

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Fructan

Fucoidan

Sucrose Stearate

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Gellan Gum

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrolyzed Collagen 0.05%

Polyglutamic Acid

Sodium PCA

Disodium EDTA

Serine

Glycine

Madecassoside

Alanine

Asiaticoside

Neofinetia Falcata Callus Culture Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glycosphingolipids

Phytosphingosine

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22

Tranexamoyl Dipeptide-22

Tripeptide-29

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1)

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Water, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Artemisia Annua Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Taraxacum Platycarpum Extract, Ulmus Campestris Bark Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Lactobacillus Ferment, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Carbomer, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Fructan, Fucoidan, Sucrose Stearate, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Gellan Gum, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrolyzed Collagen 0.05%, Polyglutamic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium PCA, Disodium EDTA, Cholesterol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Serine, Glycine, Madecassoside, Alanine, Asiaticoside, Neofinetia Falcata Callus Culture Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycosphingolipids, Phytosphingosine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-22, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Tranexamoyl Dipeptide-22, Tripeptide-29, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1), Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-9

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.

It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.

On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin

The more interesting story is underneath:

Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.

A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.

It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.

This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.

Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hexapeptide-9 is a signaling peptide that is made to mimic a fragment found naturally in collagen IV and XVII.

It is classified as a matrikine peptide and works by telling your skin cells (especially fibroblasts) to ramp up collagen and hyaluronic acid production.

In-vitro studies show it can enhance epidermal regeneration, boost synthesis of collagen types I, III, and IV, and improved markers of skin differentiation.

Think of skin differentiation like this: your skin cells are born at the bottom and slowly travel up to the surface as they "grow up". As they move up, they start producing specific proteins that make your skin do its job well. Two of these proteins are keratin (it makes your skin tough) and filaggrin (it breaks apart into tiny molecules to keep your skin hydrated). So Hexapeptide-9 has shown to help skin cells grow up properly and make stronger, more hydrated skin.

A manufacturer also reports increased collagen production by 117% and hyaluronic acid production by 267%.

Just know much of the published data comes from manufacturer-sponsored studies. There is a recent clinical trial showing promising anti-aging results but the evidence base is still growing.

Generally, this ingredient is well-tolerated and there's no harm in using it as a supportive ingredient in your routine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Peptides are amino acids naturally found in your skin. These amino acids make up many proteins your skin uses. Collagen is made up of peptides. Collagen is responsible for keeping your skin plump and youthful.

As you age, your body naturally produces less collagen. Since peptides are the building blocks of collagen, it may have anti-aging effects.

Sh-Polypeptide-3 is a peptide.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.

This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.

GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.

In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.

Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.

Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.

A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.

While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.

Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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