Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Numbuzin 9+ NMN Bio Liftingsil Essence Versus Niod Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3)

Numbuzin 9+ NMN Bio Liftingsil Essence Versus Niod Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3) This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated aroun

Numbuzin 9+ NMN Bio Liftingsil Essence Versus Niod Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS3)

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tripeptide-29 and Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Polyglycerin-3

Butylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Propanediol

Dimethicone

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Methylpropanediol

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Hyaluronate

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil

Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pentylene Glycol

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Cholesterol

Nicotinamide Mononucleotide

Adenosine Triphosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Copper Gluconate

Resveratrol

Capryloyl Dipeptide-17

Thioctic Acid

Glutathione

Potassium Hydroxide

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone

Sorbitan Laurate

Steareth-20

Astaxanthin

Sodium Lactate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Panthenol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Citrate

Dextran

Hexapeptide-2

Magnesium Chloride

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Dipeptide-2

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine

Citric Acid

Biotin

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Tocopheryl Acetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Pentapeptide-18

Tripeptide-3

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Hexapeptide-9

Oligopeptide-3

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Ubiquinone

Copper Tripeptide-1

Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1

Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4

Galloyl Pentapeptide-33

Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Octapeptide-7

Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Decapeptide-9

Sh-Oligopeptide-9

Sh-Pentapeptide-19

Asparagine

Glutamine

Tryptophan

Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Carnosine

Nonapeptide-1

Cetearyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Resveratrol, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Glutathione, Potassium Hydroxide, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Potassium Sorbate

Tripeptide-29

Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate

Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Glycogen

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ethoxydiglycol

Isoceteth-20

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Tripeptide-29, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Tripeptide-1, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Glycogen, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Dextran, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Isoceteth-20, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.

It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.

Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.

Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.

Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.

This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.

This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.

GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.

In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.

Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.

Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.

A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.

While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.

Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  7. 07The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  8. 08Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  9. 09Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  10. 10Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  11. 11Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  12. 12Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  13. 13This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  14. 14Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  15. 15Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  16. 16Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  17. 17It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
  18. 18On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
  19. 19Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
  20. 20You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side