Skin science article
Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream
Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin. This
Olehenriksen Banana Bright+ Eye Crème Versus Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Isododecane
Coconut Alkanes
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glycerin
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Cocoyl Proline
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Ascorbic Acid
Gold
Glutathione
Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract
Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract
Glucosyl Hesperidin
Tocopherol
Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide
Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract
Morus Alba Root Extract
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Jojoba Esters
Caprylyl Glycol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polyacrylate-13
Butylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Citrate
Polyisobutene
Beheneth-5
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Behenyl Alcohol
Sodium Hydroxide
Sorbic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Citric Acid
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Stearic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Oleic Acid
Sorbitol
Silica
Sodium Benzoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Mica
Titanium Dioxide
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Isododecane, Coconut Alkanes, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cocoyl Proline, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ascorbic Acid, Gold, Glutathione, Citrus Nobilis Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Extract, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Tocopherol, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Jojoba Esters, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Polyisobutene, Beheneth-5, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Sorbitol, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77891, CI 77491
Tribehenin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
Glyceryl Stearate
Squalane
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Bakuchiol
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ceramide NP
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract
Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract
Calanthe Discolor Extract
Lilium Candidum Flower Extract
Ubiquinone
Superoxide Dismutase
Ergothioneine
Tocopheryl Acetate
Bisabolol
Allantoin
Biotin
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Methylglucoside Phosphate
Copper Lysinate/Prolinate
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Chrysin
Gluconolactone
Dipeptide-2
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Calcium Gluconate
N-Hydroxysuccinimide
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Isohexadecane
Pentylene Glycol
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Gluconate
Sorbitan Oleate
Steareth-20
Benzyl Alcohol
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Tribehenin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Squalane, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Bakuchiol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pfaffia Paniculata Root Extract, Ptychopetalum Olacoides Bark/Stem Extract, Calanthe Discolor Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Ubiquinone, Superoxide Dismutase, Ergothioneine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Biotin, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Gluconolactone, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Calcium Gluconate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Steareth-20, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.