Skin science article
Olehenriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment
Olehenriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark sp
Olehenriksen Banana Bright Vitamin C Serum Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This pore-care treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Glucosamine to refine the look of pores and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Squalane
Dimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isododecane
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Coconut Alkanes
CI 77891
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Cetearyl Methicone
Silica
Phenoxyethanol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Xylitylglucoside
Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer
Anhydroxylitol
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Stevioside
Polysilicone-11
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Xylitol
Tocopherol
Parfum
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
CI 77491
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glucose
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Citrate
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Ascorbic Acid
Aroma
Sodium Chloride
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Water, Squalane, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isododecane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Coconut Alkanes, CI 77891, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cetearyl Methicone, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Anhydroxylitol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stevioside, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Parfum, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, CI 77491, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ascorbic Acid, Aroma, Sodium Chloride, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
Niacinamide 20%
Pentylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Acetyl Glucosamine
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Camellia Japonica Flower Extract
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Allantoin
Lecithin
Pullulan
Panthenol
Sclerotium Gum
Propanediol
Sodium Phytate
Water, Niacinamide 20%, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Acetyl Glucosamine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Lecithin, Pullulan, Panthenol, Silica, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Sodium Phytate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.