Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus BYOMA Liptide Lip Mask

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus BYOMA Liptide Lip Mask This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. This hydrating li

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus BYOMA Liptide Lip Mask

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This hydrating lip mask is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to hydrate lips and strengthen the lip barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Polybutene

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer

Cera Microcristallina

Silica

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Lactic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Sorbitan Isostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Octyldodecanol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Dicalcium Phosphate

Tribehenin

Propylene Carbonate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Parfum

Citral

Limonene

Linalool

Iron Oxides

CI 77891

Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Synthetic Wax

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract

Gluconolactone

Mandelic Acid

Glycerin

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Sphingolipids

Water

Ceramide NP

Benzyl Benzoate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Synthetic Wax, Parfum, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Gluconolactone, Mandelic Acid, Glycerin, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sphingolipids, Water, Ceramide NP, Lactic Acid, Benzyl Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.

Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.

Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.

Like glycolic acid, it can:

Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.

Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.

To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.

Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.

Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.

When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.

Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.

Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
  4. 04Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
  5. 05It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
  6. 06One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
  7. 07Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
  8. 08Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
  9. 09This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
  10. 10Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
  11. 11The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
  12. 12Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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