Skin science article
Polite Society Polite Pout Glossy Lip Balm Versus Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment
Polite Society Polite Pout Glossy Lip Balm Versus Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate li
Polite Society Polite Pout Glossy Lip Balm Versus Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment
This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Polybutene
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Corylus Avellana Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Phenoxyethanol
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Aroma
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Sodium Saccharin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glycine Soja Oil
Citrus Aurantifolia Oil
Cinnamal
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract
Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract
Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Paeonia Officinalis Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
CI 77891
Iron Oxides
CI 15850
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polybutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Aroma, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sodium Saccharin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycine Soja Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Oil, Cinnamal, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Paeonia Officinalis Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 15850
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
Cera Microcristallina
Silica
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Garcinia Indica Seed Butter
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Oleic Acid
Lactic Acid
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Sorbitan Isostearate
Octyldodecanol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Dicalcium Phosphate
Tribehenin
Propylene Carbonate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Parfum
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is a synthetic emollient that works as a lanolin substitute.
This ingredient is a great vegan option for those avoiding animal-derived ingredients.
It mostly stays on the surface of skin where it helps hydrate due to its large molecular size and low water solubility.
Due to it being derived from fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia or fungal acne safe.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.
In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.
It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.
Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
This ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.