Skin science article
Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Farmacy Lip Smoothie
Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Farmacy Lip Smoothie This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. This smoothing lip
Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Farmacy Lip Smoothie
This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.
This smoothing lip moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
Cera Microcristallina
Silica
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Garcinia Indica Seed Butter
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tocopherol
Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Oleic Acid
Lactic Acid
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Sorbitan Isostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Octyldodecanol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Dicalcium Phosphate
Tribehenin
Propylene Carbonate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Parfum
Citral
Limonene
Linalool
Iron Oxides
CI 77891
Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Diisostearyl Malate
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Synthetic Wax
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Glycerin
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Curcuma Longa Leaf Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Extract
Glyceryl Caprylate
Malic Acid
Amber Powder
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Aroma
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polybutene, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Synthetic Wax, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Malic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Amber Powder, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Aroma, Limonene
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.