Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Treatment Lip Balm

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Treatment Lip Balm This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrat

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Fresh Sugar Advanced Therapy Treatment Lip Balm

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Polybutene

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer

Cera Microcristallina

Silica

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Lactic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Sorbitan Isostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Octyldodecanol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Dicalcium Phosphate

Tribehenin

Propylene Carbonate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Parfum

Citral

Limonene

Linalool

Iron Oxides

CI 77891

Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891

Cera Alba

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters

Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Prunus Domestica Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil

Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract

Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

PEG-6 Isostearate

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Trihydroxystearin

Hesperetin Laurate

Vanillin

Butylene Glycol

BHT

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hexylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Geraniol

Cera Alba, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters, Hydrogenated Palm Kernel Glycerides, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Parfum, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, PEG-6 Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Trihydroxystearin, Hesperetin Laurate, Vanillin, Butylene Glycol, BHT, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Geraniol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.

Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.

You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.

Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.

The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Copernicia Cerifera Wax comes from a palm tree native to Brazil; another name for this ingredient is Carnauba Wax.

This ingredient is used to thicken texture and also leaves behind a film when applied.

Fun fact: This wax has the highest melting point of all natural waxes and low solubility.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
  4. 04As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
  5. 05In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
  6. 06Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
  7. 07Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
  8. 08Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
  9. 09It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
  10. 10One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
  11. 11Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
  12. 12Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
  13. 13This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
  14. 14Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
  15. 15The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
  16. 16Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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