Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

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Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Mac Cosmetics Glow Play Lip Balm

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Mac Cosmetics Glow Play Lip Balm This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. This ba

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Mac Cosmetics Glow Play Lip Balm

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Polybutene

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer

Cera Microcristallina

Silica

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Lactic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Sorbitan Isostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Octyldodecanol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Dicalcium Phosphate

Tribehenin

Propylene Carbonate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Parfum

Citral

Limonene

Linalool

Iron Oxides

CI 77891

Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer

Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate

Polyethylene

Ozokerite

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Tin Oxide

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Citric Acid

Aroma

Mica

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

CI 77163

CI 42090

CI 77400

CI 75470

CI 77742

CI 15850

CI 45380

CI 45410

CI 73360

CI 17200

CI 19140

CI 15985

Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Polyethylene, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Ozokerite, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Tin Oxide, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Citric Acid, Aroma, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77163, CI 42090, CI 77400, CI 75470, CI 77742, CI 15850, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 73360, CI 17200, CI 19140, CI 15985

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.

In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.

It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.

Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
  4. 04Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
  5. 05This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
  6. 06It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
  7. 07Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
  8. 08In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
  9. 09One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
  10. 10For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
  11. 11This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  12. 12Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
  13. 13Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
  14. 14Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
  15. 15Like glycolic acid, it can:
  16. 16Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
  17. 17Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
  18. 18To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
  19. 19Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
  20. 20Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
Source · skinsort.com
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