Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Topicals Slick Salve Lip Balm

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Topicals Slick Salve Lip Balm This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips. This barri

Olehenriksen Pout Preserve Peptide Lip Treatment Versus Topicals Slick Salve Lip Balm

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Polybutene

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer

Cera Microcristallina

Silica

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

Euterpe Oleracea Sterols

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Oleic Acid

Lactic Acid

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Sorbitan Isostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Octyldodecanol

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Dicalcium Phosphate

Tribehenin

Propylene Carbonate

Stearalkonium Hectorite

Parfum

Citral

Limonene

Linalool

Iron Oxides

CI 77891

Polybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Jojoba Esters

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Phytosphingosine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Cholesterol

Ergothioneine

Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Powder

Portulaca Pilosa Extract

Sucrose Cocoate

Panthenol

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Carbomer

Kaolin

Oryza Sativa Bran Wax

Xanthan Gum

Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Triisostearin

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Sorbitan Oleate

Water

Aroma

CI 77742

CI 17200

CI 45380

CI 77491

CI 77499

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Jojoba Esters, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Cholesterol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ergothioneine, Stevia Rebaudiana Leaf/Stem Powder, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Sucrose Cocoate, Panthenol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Silica, Carbomer, Kaolin, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Xanthan Gum, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Triisostearin, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Octyldodecanol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Water, Aroma, CI 77742, CI 17200, CI 45380, CI 77491, CI 77499, CI 77891

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Copernicia Cerifera Wax comes from a palm tree native to Brazil; another name for this ingredient is Carnauba Wax.

This ingredient is used to thicken texture and also leaves behind a film when applied.

Fun fact: This wax has the highest melting point of all natural waxes and low solubility.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.

It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.

Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
  11. 11It is:
  12. 12You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
  13. 13This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
  14. 14Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
  15. 15Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
  16. 16That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
  17. 17Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
  18. 18In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than…
  19. 19Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
  20. 20A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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