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Skin science article

Origins Original Skin™ Renewal Serum with Willowherb Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum

Origins Original Skin™ Renewal Serum with Willowherb Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum This smoothing serum is formulated around Silica and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores. This anti-aging serum is formu

Origins Original Skin™ Renewal Serum with Willowherb Versus Origins Plantscription Multi-Powered Youth Serum

This smoothing serum is formulated around Silica and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and refine the look of pores.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Silica

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Polysilicone-11

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil

Salvia Sclarea Oil

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract

Limonene

Linalool

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Castanea Sativa Seed Extract

Salicylic Acid

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Molasses Extract

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Pisum Sativum Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caffeine

Urea

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Arginine

Cera Alba

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phospholipids

PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium PCA

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Glucosamine Hcl

Sodium Phytate

Hexylene Glycol

Laureth-12

Trehalose

Polyquaternium-51

Tromethamine

Silica Silylate

Carbomer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Potassium Sorbate

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Mica

CI 77491

CI 77492

CI 77499

CI 77891

Water, Butylene Glycol, Silica, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-11, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Castanea Sativa Seed Extract, Salicylic Acid, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Molasses Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caffeine, Urea, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Arginine, Cera Alba, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phospholipids, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium PCA, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glucosamine Hcl, Sodium Phytate, Hexylene Glycol, Laureth-12, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51, Tromethamine, Silica Silylate, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77891

Niacinamide

Heptyl Undecylenate

Octyldodecanol

Glycereth-26

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Algae Extract

Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Geraniol

Citronellol

Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

PEG-8

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Metabisulfite

Sodium Sulfite

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Heptyl Undecylenate, Octyldodecanol, Glycereth-26, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Algae Extract, Illicium Verum Fruit/Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Myristica Fragrans Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Limonene, Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Molasses Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Pisum Sativum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-8, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Phytate, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract comes from bamboo plant. Bamboo extract is skin conditioning and soothing.

Bamboo extract has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution. The antioxidant property of bamboo also makes it great at healing wounds.

Bamboos are rich in Vitamin E, Vitamin B6, and copper.

A recent study found bamboo extract might interrupt the process of hyperpigmentation.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

We don't have a description for Glucosamine Hcl yet.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.

It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.

As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.

Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.

This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.

A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.

We don't have a description for Laminaria Saccharina Extract yet.

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.

Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.

When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.

A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.

Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.

More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.

Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

We don't have a description for Molasses Extract yet.

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It is volatile, meaning it evaporates off the skin.

Fragrant components of Rose Geranium include citronellol and geraniol. These may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles traditional roses.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

We don't have a description for Pisum Sativum Extract yet.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

We don't have a description for Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract yet.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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