Skin science article
Pacifica Sea & C Love Vitamin Serum Versus Derma E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum
Pacifica Sea & C Love Vitamin Serum Versus Derma E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin. This anti-aging serum is
Pacifica Sea & C Love Vitamin Serum Versus Derma E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Gelidiella Acerosa Extract
Monostroma Nitidum Thallus Extract
Spirulina Maxima Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Sodium Hyaluronate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Amino Esters-1
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Lawsonia Inermis Flower/Fruit/Leaf Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Sodium Citrate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Monostroma Nitidum Thallus Extract, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Amino Esters-1, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lawsonia Inermis Flower/Fruit/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Propanediol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Cellulose Gum
Panthenol
Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract
Acacia Seyal Gum Extract
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Allantoin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Leucine
Tyrosine
Alanine
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Panthenol, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Leucine, Tyrosine, Alanine, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!