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Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster Versus Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum

Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster Versus Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated

Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Booster Versus Clinique Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate

Butylene Glycol

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Polysorbate 20

Retinol

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root

Ceramide NP

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract

Arctium Lappa Seed Oil

Salix Alba Extract

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glyceryl Ascorbate

Disodium EDTA

Sorbic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Ceramide NP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol

Dimethicone

Isododecane

Polysilicone-11

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Squalane

Hypnea Musciformis Extract

Gelidiella Acerosa Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Caffeine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Whey Protein

Isohexadecane

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Cholesterol

PEG-8

Faex Extract

PEG-6

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Sodium Phosphate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Polysorbate 80

Carbomer

Hexylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Potassium Hydroxide

Tin Oxide

Disodium Phosphate

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Potassium Sorbate

CI 77891

Water, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Polysilicone-11, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Squalane, Hypnea Musciformis Extract, Gelidiella Acerosa Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Whey Protein, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Cholesterol, PEG-8, Faex Extract, PEG-6, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Phosphate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Hexylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Tin Oxide, Disodium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, CI 77891

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Niacinamide
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Tranexamic Acid
  5. 05C13-15 Alkane
  6. 06Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  7. 07Dicaprylyl Carbonate
  8. 08Ethyl Macadamiate
  9. 09Behenyl Alcohol
  10. 10Glyceryl Stearate
  11. 11Butylene Glycol
  12. 12Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
  13. 13Tocopherol
  14. 14Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate
  15. 15Lecithin
  16. 16Bakuchiol
  17. 17Xanthan Gum
  18. 18Caprylyl Glycol
  19. 19Hydrogenated Lecithin
  20. 20Allantoin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side