Skin science article
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment Versus Meditherapy Retinal Skin Booster Serum
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment Versus Meditherapy Retinal Skin Booster Serum This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is formulated a
Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment Versus Meditherapy Retinal Skin Booster Serum
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Isononyl Isononanoate
Castor Isostearate Succinate
Glyceryl Stearate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
PEG-33
Polysorbate 20
Behenyl Alcohol
PEG-100 Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Retinol
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Salix Alba Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Lecithin
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Sorbitan Laurate
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sodium Hydroxide
Tribehenin
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
PEG-10 Phytosterol
PEG-8 Dimethicone
PEG-14
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Arachidyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Carbomer
Phenoxyethanol
Benzoic Acid
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
Methylpropanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1,2-Hexanediol
Propanediol
Polyglycerin-3
Niacinamide
Phenyl Trimethicone
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Xanthan Gum
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Adenosine
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Cholesterol
Tocopherol
Brassica Campestris Sterols
Retinal
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Potentilla Anserina Extract
Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Polyquaternium-51
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Beta-Glucan
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Ceramide NP
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Canola Oil
Myristyl Alcohol
PCA
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Asiaticoside
Madecassoside
Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Lactobionic Acid
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Beta-Carotene
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Panthenol
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Sucrose Distearate
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Madecassic Acid
Asiatic Acid
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Niacinamide, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Retinal, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Potentilla Anserina Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Polyquaternium-51, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Beta-Glucan, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Canola Oil, Myristyl Alcohol, PCA, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobionic Acid, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beta-Carotene, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Panthenol, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Sucrose Distearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.
This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.
The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.
Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect our skin from free-radical damage.
Oatmeal also contains beneficial compounds:
This ingredient is created by mixing grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!