Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial

Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster Versus Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial

This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening overnight mask is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Dimethicone

Salicylic Acid

Adenosine

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Allantoin

Bisabolol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Xanthan Gum

Sclerotium Gum

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Azelaic Acid 10%

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Salicylic Acid 1%

Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Diglucosyl Gallic Acid

Niacinamide

Phloretin

Ferulic Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Behenic Acid

Glutathione

Linoleic Acid

Tocotrienols

Thioctic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Ergothioneine

Cholesterol

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Eos

Ceramide NP

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Amylopectin

Ellagic Acid

Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Squalane

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Acetyl Glucosamine

Punica Granatum Extract

Dextrin

Sebacic Acid

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Tocopherol

Ceteareth-25

Sorbitan Isostearate

Polydextrose

Cetyl Alcohol

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Polysorbate 60

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Azelaic Acid 10%, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Salicylic Acid 1%, Glycerin, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Niacinamide, Phloretin, Allantoin, Ferulic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Behenic Acid, Glutathione, Linoleic Acid, Tocotrienols, Thioctic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ergothioneine, Cholesterol, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Amylopectin, Ellagic Acid, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Squalane, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Punica Granatum Extract, Dextrin, Sebacic Acid, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Tocopherol, Ceteareth-25, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polydextrose, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.

What makes it special?

OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.

Here's what each tier does best:

Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.

Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.

Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.

Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.

Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.

It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.

While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.

If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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