Skin science article
Paula's Choice Anti-Aging Lip Gloss SPF 40 Versus Rodial SPF 50 Drops
Paula's Choice Anti-Aging Lip Gloss SPF 40 Versus Rodial SPF 50 Drops This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Homosalate 5% Ethylhe
Paula's Choice Anti-Aging Lip Gloss SPF 40 Versus Rodial SPF 50 Drops
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Homosalate 5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Octocrylene 2.5%
Polybutene
Octyldodecanol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Cera Microcristallina
Polyethylene
Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Aroma
Silica Silylate
Adenosine
Retinyl Palmitate
Lecithin
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Isononyl Isononanoate
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Isopropyl Myristate
Propylene Carbonate
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Silica
CI 15850
Iron Oxides
Titanium Dioxide
Tin Oxide
Mica
Phenoxyethanol
CI 77742
Blue 1 Lake
CI 15985
CI 19140
CI 45380
CI 45410
CI 73360
CI 12085
CI 16035
Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Octocrylene 2.5%, Polybutene, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cera Microcristallina, Polyethylene, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Aroma, Silica Silylate, Adenosine, Retinyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Carbonate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Silica, CI 15850, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Tin Oxide, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77742, Blue 1 Lake, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 73360, CI 12085, CI 16035
Water
Octocrylene
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Butylene Glycol
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Glyceryl Stearate
Glycerin
PEG-100 Stearate
Jojoba Esters
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Propanediol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Saccharide Isomerate
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Benzyl Alcohol
Bisabolol
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Carbomer
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract
Polyglycerin-3
Parfum
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Sodium Hydroxide
Biosaccharide Gum-4
Dehydroacetic Acid
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Limonene
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Citronellol
Water, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Benzophenone-3, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butylene Glycol, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Octyldodecanol, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Propanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Saccharide Isomerate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Benzyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Lecithin, Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Extract, Polyglycerin-3, Parfum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Hydroxide, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Limonene, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Tocopherol, Citronellol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is an oil-soluble used to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays (peak 357 nm).
It's one of the most effective UVA filters available but has a major caveat of photostability: avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation.
This means it can lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight without the help of a stabilizing agent.
Studies show antioxidants (like vitamin E or vitamin C) and some UV filters (like octocrylene and Tinosorb S) can meaningfully improve its stability in a formulation.
The maximum allowable concentration according to regulation is 3% in the US + Canada, and 5% in the EU, Australia, China, Korea, and ASEAN countries.
It has a well-support safety profile: a comprehensive 2025 review found minimal toxicity with no evidence of carcinogenicity.
Overall, avobenzone is a safe and regulated ingredient used in sunscreen for over 40 years.
Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.
It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.
You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.
The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.
Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.
The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.
Usage levels vary around the world:
Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.
The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).
You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.
In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.
Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.
The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that mainly absorbs UVB and short wave UVA II light.
Its real superpower is teamwork: octocrylene is remarkably photostable and is most famous for stabilizing avobenzone (the workhorse UVA filter).
This ingredient is commonly used to enhance both UVB and UVA protection due to its unique property in stabilizing avobenzone. It also pulls double duty by boosting water resistance and giving formulas a smooth, spreadable feel.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has deemed octocrylene to be safe as a UV-filter at concentrations up to 10% (capped at 9% in propellant sprays). The US also permits it up to 10%.
Two things worth knowing:
You'll usually see this ingredient used in concentrations between 2-10% (higher amounts when used as a stabilizer for avobenzone).
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne: In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.