Skin science article
Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Versus Lumene Nordic-C Glow Boost Essence Serum
Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Versus Lumene Nordic-C Glow Boost Essence Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening essence is formulated ar
Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster Versus Lumene Nordic-C Glow Boost Essence Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening essence is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Glycerin
Ethoxydiglycol
Sodium Hydroxide
PPG-26-Buteth-26
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Bisabolol
Ferulic Acid
Sodium Phytate
Decylene Glycol
Tocopherol
1,2-Hexanediol
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Ascorbic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Hydroxide, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Bisabolol, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Decylene Glycol, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract
Betaine
Saccharide Isomerate
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Xylitylglucoside
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Anhydroxylitol
Trehalose
Urea
Disodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Maltodextrin
Xylitol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Citrate
Adenosine
Pentylene Glycol
Serine
Citric Acid
Algin
Caprylyl Glycol
Disodium Phosphate
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Pullulan
Potassium Phosphate
Limonene
Linalool
Citral
Parfum
Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Betaine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Saccharide Isomerate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Anhydroxylitol, Trehalose, Urea, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Maltodextrin, Xylitol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Adenosine, Pentylene Glycol, Serine, Citric Acid, Algin, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Pullulan, Potassium Phosphate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!