Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier Versus Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream

Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier Versus Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream This pore-care treatment is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil. This barrier-re

Paula's Choice Defense Antioxidant Pore Purifier Versus Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin™ Skin Barrier Moisturizing Cream

This pore-care treatment is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside and Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Ethoxydiglycol

Glycerin

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Panthenol

Salicylic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Callus

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract

Ceramide NP

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Niacinamide

Phytic Acid

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Adenosine

Ubiquinone

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lecithin

Centella Asiatica Extract

Sucrose Stearate

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Carbomer

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Caprylyl Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Glycerin, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Callus, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Niacinamide, Phytic Acid, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Adenosine, Ubiquinone, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sucrose Stearate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Dipropylene Glycol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Methyl Trimethicone

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

1,2-Hexanediol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Dicaprylyl Ether

Cetearyl Olivate

Glyceryl Stearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Olivate

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

2,3-Butanediol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Ceramide Ng

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Cholesterol

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cellulose Gum

Dextrin

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Citronellol

Tocopherol

CI 19140

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Methyl Trimethicone, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, 2,3-Butanediol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Cholesterol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cellulose Gum, Dextrin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Citronellol, Tocopherol, CI 19140

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
  3. 03Zinc Oxide
  4. 04Titanium Dioxide
  5. 05Glycerin
  6. 06Isononyl Isononanoate
  7. 07Butylene Glycol
  8. 08Cetearyl Alcohol
  9. 09Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
  10. 10Dimethicone
  11. 11Glyceryl Stearate
  12. 12Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  13. 13Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
  14. 14Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
  15. 15Tetrapeptide-30
  16. 16Linoleic Acid
  17. 17Resveratrol
  18. 18Ascorbyl Glucoside
  19. 19Niacinamide
  20. 20Tocopheryl Acetate
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side