Skin science article
Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum Versus Sachi Skin Triphala Pigmentation Corrector
Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum Versus Sachi Skin Triphala Pigmentation Corrector This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening serum is for
Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum Versus Sachi Skin Triphala Pigmentation Corrector
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Gluconolactone to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Tranexamic Acid
C13-15 Alkane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Ethyl Macadamiate
Behenyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Butylene Glycol
Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate
Lecithin
Bakuchiol
Xanthan Gum
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Allantoin
Glycine Soja Oil
Hexylene Glycol
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Citric Acid
Sodium Phytate
Malic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate, Lecithin, Bakuchiol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Glycine Soja Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Malic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Gluconolactone
Pentylene Glycol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Dicaprylyl Ether
Safflower Seed Oil Piperonyl Esters
Panthenyl Triacetate
Arachidyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Carbomer
Bisabolol
Hexylresorcinol
Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Terminalia Bellerica Fruit Extract
Sucrose
Acetyl Rheum Rhaponticum Root Extract
Plankton Extract
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Glucose
Water, Niacinamide, Gluconolactone, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Safflower Seed Oil Piperonyl Esters, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Panthenyl Triacetate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Carbomer, Behenyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Hexylresorcinol, Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Terminalia Bellerica Fruit Extract, Sucrose, Acetyl Rheum Rhaponticum Root Extract, Plankton Extract, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Lecithin, Glucose, Tocopherol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
This ingredient is also known as milk thistle seed oil. It is made by cold pressing the seeds of the milk thistle plant.
The main fatty acids in this oil are linoleic acid (~53%) and oleic acid (~21%). However, its standout compound is silymarin, a powerful antioxidant and skin soother.
Silymarin is best known for protecting skin against UV rays and pollution as an antioxidant. In a clinical study, a formulation containing this ingredient showed improvements in skin elasticity, dermal densitiy, brightness, and a reduction of redness after 4 weeks of use.
Research on the fruit extract found a sustained and significant decrease in acne lesion counts (a ~45% improvement after 6 months and ~59% at 12 months).
Due to its rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.