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Skin science article

Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum Versus Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment

Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum Versus Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing

Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum Versus Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This smoothing treatment is formulated around Squalane and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Tranexamic Acid

C13-15 Alkane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Ethyl Macadamiate

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Silybum Marianum Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate

Lecithin

Bakuchiol

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Allantoin

Glycine Soja Oil

Hexylene Glycol

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Glycine Soja Sterols

Citric Acid

Sodium Phytate

Malic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate, Lecithin, Bakuchiol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Glycine Soja Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Malic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract

Cypripedium Pubescens Extract

Opuntia Vulgaris Leaf Extract

Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Arnica Montana Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Squalane

Lactic Acid

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Propanediol

Stearic Acid

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Disiloxane

Ceteareth-20

PEG-100 Stearate

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil

Potassium Hydroxide

Chlorphenesin

Water, Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract, Cypripedium Pubescens Extract, Opuntia Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Lactic Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Disiloxane, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Phytate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Salicylic Acid 0.5%
  2. 02Water
  3. 03Kaolin
  4. 04Bentonite
  5. 05Titanium Dioxide
  6. 06Butylene Glycol
  7. 07C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
  8. 08Cetyl Esters
  9. 09Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
  10. 10Glycerin
  11. 11Illite
  12. 12Tapioca Starch
  13. 13Zea Mays Starch
  14. 14Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  15. 15Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
  16. 16Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
  17. 17Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract
  18. 18Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
  19. 19Epilobium Fleischeri Extract
  20. 20Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Defense Moisturiser

Paula's Choice Defense Moisturiser Paula's Choice Defense Moisturiser ingredients explained: Aqua, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copo…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment

Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment Paula's Choice BHA 9 Treatment ingredients explained: Propylene Glycol⁠, PEG-75 Stearate⁠, PEG-8⁠, Water⁠, Salicylic Acid⁠, Glycerin⁠, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kern…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side