Skin science article
Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment
Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Tetra
Paula's Choice Extra Care Non-Greasy Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Homosalate 10%
Benzophenone-3 6%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Octocrylene 2%
Water
Butylene Glycol
PEG-8
Polyethylene
Silica
Dimethicone
Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Titanium Dioxide
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Bentonite
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Kaolin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Homosalate 10%, Benzophenone-3 6%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Octocrylene 2%, Water, Butylene Glycol, PEG-8, Polyethylene, Silica, Dimethicone, Picrasma Excelsa Wood Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bentonite, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Kaolin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Glycerin
Cetyl Palmitate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Cetyl Alcohol
Retinol
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Panthenol
Carnosine
Dimethiconol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Beeswax
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Xanthan Gum
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Decylene Glycol
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Carnosine, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Beeswax, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Decylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!