Paula's Choice Hydralight Moisture Infusing Lotion Versus Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Ultimate Anti-Aging Cream

Paula's Choice Hydralight Moisture Infusing Lotion Versus Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin Ultimate Anti-Aging Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Propylene Glycol Isoceteth-3 Acetate

Squalane

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetyl Alcohol

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Cholesterol

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycerin

Superoxide Dismutase

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Sodium PCA

Phytosphingosine

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Xanthan Gum

Laureth-4

Laureth-23

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Benzoic Acid

Sorbic Acid

Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Propylene Glycol Isoceteth-3 Acetate, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Superoxide Dismutase, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Sodium PCA, Phytosphingosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-4, Laureth-23, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Carbomer

Propanediol

Oryza Sativa Hull Powder

Arachidyl Glucoside

Mica

CI 77891

Vp/Va Copolymer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Parfum

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Isomalt

Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract

Algae Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Buddleja Davidii Leaf Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract

Diacetyl Boldine

Calcium Gluconate

Gluconolactone

Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Citric Acid

Linalool

Lecithin

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract

Disodium Phosphate

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Propanediol, Oryza Sativa Hull Powder, Arachidyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chlorphenesin, Mica, CI 77891, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Vp/Va Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Parfum, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Asparagus Officinalis Stem Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Isomalt, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Buddleja Davidii Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Diacetyl Boldine, Calcium Gluconate, Gluconolactone, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Citric Acid, Linalool, Lecithin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Cell Extract, Disodium Phosphate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.

This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.

The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.

Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect our skin from free-radical damage.

Oatmeal also contains beneficial compounds:

This ingredient is created by mixing grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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