Skin science article
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamid
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Squalane
Glycerin
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Gigartina Stellata Extract
Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate
Tridecapeptide-1
Oligopeptide-1
Sodium Phytate
Propanediol
Lecithin
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Cyanocobalamin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Tridecapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Propanediol, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Phenoxyethanol
Dipropylene Glycol
Methylpropanediol
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Ethoxydiglycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Niacinamide
Trehalose
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Collagen
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Cynanchum Atratum Extract
Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Soluble Collagen
Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Salmon Egg Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Wine Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate
Tromethamine
Glucose
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Fructooligosaccharides
Fructose
Adenosine
Tocopherol
Pullulan
Soluble Proteoglycan
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Sodium DNA
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Water, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Trehalose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Soluble Collagen, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Salmon Egg Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Wine Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Tromethamine, Glucose, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Soluble Proteoglycan, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Sodium DNA, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate is a positively charged version of hyaluronic acid.
This small change does a lot in a formula:
Regular hyaluronic acid carries a negative charge and so does the surface of your skin. This means the two repel each other and hyaluronic acid can be washed away easily. The positive charge here does the opposite: it makes the ingredient cling to your skin (also called "substantivity") so it keeps hydrating even in rinse-off products where it lays down a light, moisture-holding film.
The research backs this up too; a 2025 clinical study on a shower gel containing 0.1% positively charged hyaluronic acid increased skin hydration by 6.6% versus the baseline and 11.1% versus the placebo. This was measured 6 hours after 1 minute of contact and rinse, and on volunteers with very dry skin.
The same team's lab work showed it adhered to skin far better than unmodified hyaluronic acid (+107% vs. low molecular weight, +23% versus high molecular weight). They also found it increased two proteins tied to skin hydration, aquaporin-3 by 16% and filaggrin by 35%.
A separate 2024 study reached a similar conclusion and credited the hydrating benefits to its film-forming properties.
Both studies used the ingredient at 0.1% which also matches how much it usually shows up in products (at fractions of a percent).
One honesty note worth keeping in mind: the published research comes from the company that manufactures the ingredient so independent data would strengthen the picture. However, the results are consistent and the mechanism makes sense.
As a Hyaluronic Acid derivative, it has a well-tolerated profile and suits most skin types.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!