Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Après Skin Multi-Use Rescue Crème Overnight Moisturizer

Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus Olehenriksen Après Skin Multi-Use Rescue Crème Overnight Moisturizer

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Squalane

Glycerin

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Pentylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Butylene Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Gigartina Stellata Extract

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Tridecapeptide-1

Oligopeptide-1

Sodium Phytate

Propanediol

Lecithin

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Cyanocobalamin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Tridecapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Propanediol, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Phenoxyethanol

Panthenol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Octyldodecanol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Dicaprylyl Ether

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Olivate

Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil

Tocopheryl Acetate

Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polyglutamic Acid

Ceramide Ng

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Zinc PCA

Sodium PCA

Magnesium PCA

Manganese PCA

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment

Saccharomyces/Potassium Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Saccharomyces/Manganese Ferment

Tocopherol

Sodium Lactate

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Sorbitan Olivate

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Sorbate

Parfum

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Citral

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sambucus Nigra Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglutamic Acid, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Zinc PCA, Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA, Manganese PCA, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Potassium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Manganese Ferment, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Sodium Lactate, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citral, Limonene, Linalool

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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