Skin science article
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier Balancing Water Cream
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier Balancing Water Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated aroun
Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer Versus Skinfix Barrier Balancing Water Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dimethicone
Squalane
Glycerin
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Gigartina Stellata Extract
Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate
Tridecapeptide-1
Oligopeptide-1
Sodium Phytate
Propanediol
Lecithin
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Cyanocobalamin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Tridecapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Propanediol, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Phenoxyethanol
Niacinamide
Triheptanoin
Saccharide Isomerate
Zinc PCA
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Allantoin
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
Glucose
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Caprylyl Glycol
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
C14-22 Alcohols
Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Squalane, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Triheptanoin, Saccharide Isomerate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Zinc PCA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Glucose, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, C14-22 Alcohols, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!