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Paula's Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% AHA Versus Fenty Beauty Pre-Show Glow Instant Retexturizing 10% AHA Treatment

Paula's Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% AHA Versus Fenty Beauty Pre-Show Glow Instant Retexturizing 10% AHA Treatment This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to refine skin texture and soften th

Paula's Choice RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment With 5% AHA Versus Fenty Beauty Pre-Show Glow Instant Retexturizing 10% AHA Treatment

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycolic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Polyacrylamide

Dimethicone

PPG-14 Butyl Ether

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Ceramide Ng

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Salicylic Acid

Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Bisabolol

Allantoin

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Dimethiconol

Tribehenin

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

PEG-40 Stearate

Sorbitan Stearate

Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Laureth-7

Sodium Hydroxide

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hexylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycolic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylamide, Dimethicone, PPG-14 Butyl Ether, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Ceramide Ng, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Salicylic Acid, Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Tribehenin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, PEG-40 Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Pvm/Ma Decadiene Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Glycerin

Potassium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Papain

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract

Panthenol

Cyanocobalamin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Citric Acid

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate

Parfum

Water, Glycolic Acid, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Butylene Glycol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid, Papain, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Cyanocobalamin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.

It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.

Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.

AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.

Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.

Overall, glycolic acid helps with:

Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.

To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).

The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:

It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.

Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.

If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.

Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.

Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
  4. 04It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
  5. 05On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
  6. 06The more interesting story is underneath:
  7. 07Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
  8. 08A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
  9. 09It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
  10. 10This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
  11. 11Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
  12. 12Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  13. 13Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  14. 14In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  15. 15While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  16. 16Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  17. 17This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  18. 18This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  19. 19Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  20. 20Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

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Paula's Choice Defense Moisturiser Paula's Choice Defense Moisturiser ingredients explained: Aqua, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copo…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side