Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment Versus CeraVe SA Lotion for Rough and Bumpy Skin

Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment Versus CeraVe SA Lotion for Rough and Bumpy Skin This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles. This smoothing m

Paula's Choice Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment Versus CeraVe SA Lotion for Rough and Bumpy Skin

This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to refine skin texture and soften the look of wrinkles.

This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Ceramide NP to refine skin texture and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Dimethicone

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Palmitate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Cetyl Alcohol

Retinol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Panthenol

Carnosine

Dimethiconol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Beeswax

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Sodium Hydroxide

Xanthan Gum

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Decylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Chlorphenesin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Carnosine, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Beeswax, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Decylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol

Salicylic Acid

Paraffinum Liquidum

Triethanolamine

Ammonium Lactate

Zea Mays Oil

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Methylparaben

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholecalciferol

Cholesterol

Propylparaben

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Phytosphingosine

Salicylic Acid, Water, Glycerin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Triethanolamine, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Lactate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Zea Mays Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Dimethicone, Methylparaben, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholecalciferol, Cholesterol, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Methylpropanediol
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Salicylic Acid
  5. 05Polysorbate 20
  6. 06Camellia Oleifera Leaf
  7. 07Sodium Hydroxide
  8. 08Tetrasodium EDTA
  9. 09Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Camellia Oleifera Leaf, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA
  10. 10Sodium Laureth Sulfate
  11. 11Decyl Glucoside
  12. 12Glycerin
  13. 13Sodium Chloride
  14. 14Coco-Betaine
  15. 15PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
  16. 16PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
  17. 17Zinc Gluconate
  18. 18Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
  19. 19Citric Acid
  20. 20Menthol
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side