Pem Delian Meet The Expert Versus Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum

Pem Delian Meet The Expert Versus Good Molecules Super Peptide Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Octapeptide-3 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Polysorbate 20

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Pentapeptide-18

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Butylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polysorbate 20, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

1,2-Hexanediol

Diheptyl Succinate

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Glycine

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tocopherol

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Glycine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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