Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Deep Crease Serum Versus Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum

Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Deep Crease Serum Versus Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Squalane

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

S-Palmitoylglutathione

Dimethicone

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Xylitylglucoside

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Anhydroxylitol

Phenoxyethanol

Dimethyl Mea

Lactic Acid

Xylitol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Parfum

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Ethylhexylglycerin

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Glycine Soja Oil

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Alaria Esculenta Extract

Glycine

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Proline

Sodium Hyaluronate

Benzyl Alcohol

Copper Gluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Acetic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Citronellol

Hydroxycitronellal

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Propanediol, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, S-Palmitoylglutathione, Dimethicone, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Xylitylglucoside, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl Mea, Lactic Acid, Xylitol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Parfum, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Glycine Soja Oil, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Glycine, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Proline, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Alcohol, Copper Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Acetic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool

Pantethine

Glycerin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Acetyl Tyrosine

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Silica Cetyl Silylate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Silica

CI 77891

CI 77491

Water, Propanediol, Pantethine, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, S-Palmitoylglutathione, Dimethyl Mea, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tyrosine, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, CI 77891, CI 77491

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

We don't have a description for Dimethyl Mea yet.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

This ingredient is also known as flaxseed oil or linseed oil. It is created by cold-pressing the seeds of the flax plant and is rich in fatty acids.

This oil is packed with omega-3 (ALA), omega-6, and omega-9 fatty acids that closely mimic the skin's own natural lipid barrier. The high omega-3 content gives it solid anti-inflammatory properties.

Clinical studies have found it can reduce water loss and improve smoothness/hydration, particularly in sensitive skin types. Studies also suggest it helps maintain the lipid layer that is compromised in atopic (eczema-prone) skin.

Wound healing studies showed that low-concentration linseed oil formulations (1-5%) produced significant barrier repair, but it should be noted that high concentrations showed diminishing returns.

Due to the rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

This ingredient is also known as Macadamia Seed Oil. It's an emollient with a fatty acid profile that closely mirrors the skin's own lipid makeup.

The palmitoleic acid content is especially notable as it's somewhat rare in plant oils. Palmitoleic acid is something your skin already makes naturally. It helps keep cell membranes structured and plays a role in fighting off harmful microbes.

This palmitoleic content is also part of why macademia seed oil absorbs quickly and doesn't leave much of a greasy residue.

It also contains oleic acid, linoleic acid, and phytosterols that can help reduce redness.

In vitro research has shown the oil to have meaningful antioxidant activity, protect fats in the skin from oxidative damage, and slow down the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid.

A 2024 clinical study found it effective at improving skin hydratino and reducing wrinkle appearance when formulated into nanoemulsions.

Because it carries oleic acid (C18) and palmitic acid (C16), this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the Malassezia yeast metabolizes in the C11-24 chain length range.

You'll also see this ingredient listed as: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil .

These two oils are identical in composition and M. ternifolia is an older INCI naming convention for the edible macadamia nut while M. integrifolia is the species actually cultivated for oil production. Both names refer to the same oil.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

S-Palmitoylglutathione is an antioxidant.

This ingredient is also known as Chia Seed Oil. It is rich in fatty acids, especially linolenic acid and linoleic acid.

Research shows topical application of chia seed oil improves skin hydration and barrier function. In vitro studies show the chia seed oil especially rich in linolenic acid can increase the skin's natural ability to hydrate and even boost natural hyaluronic acid.

Due to its fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons