Skin science article
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine
Perricone MD Essential Fx Acyl-Glutathione Eyelid Lift Serum Versus Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Pantethine
Glycerin
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
S-Palmitoylglutathione
Dimethyl Mea
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Acetyl Tyrosine
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Xanthan Gum
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
Silica Cetyl Silylate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Phenoxyethanol
Silica
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Propanediol, Pantethine, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, S-Palmitoylglutathione, Dimethyl Mea, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Tyrosine, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Xanthan Gum, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Silica Cetyl Silylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, CI 77891, CI 77491
Panthenol
Squalane
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
Triethylhexanoin
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Ubiquinone
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Salvia Sclarea Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Viola Odorata Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Tapioca Starch
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract
Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Lavandula Spica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Mentha Piperita Oil
Tocopherol
Carnosine
Allantoin
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Beta-Glucan
Caffeine
Mannitol
Bisabolol
Trehalose
Lactobacillus Ferment
1,2-Hexanediol
Steareth-21
Sodium Hydroxide
Aminomethyl Propanol
Carbomer
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Cellulose Gum
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Limonene
Linalool
Citral
Water, Panthenol, Squalane, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ubiquinone, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Viola Odorata Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tapioca Starch, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Lavandula Spica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Mentha Piperita Oil, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Beta-Glucan, Caffeine, Mannitol, Bisabolol, Trehalose, Lactobacillus Ferment, 1,2-Hexanediol, Steareth-21, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.
This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.
The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.
Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect our skin from free-radical damage.
Oatmeal also contains beneficial compounds:
This ingredient is created by mixing grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.
Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.
These compounds protect your skin two ways:
1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.
Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.
Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!